Wartime circumstances clearly
influenced the world of civilian fashion. Material shortages and rationing
demanded maximum conservation of scarce materials, along with manufacture
of the highest functionality. As a result, handbags and purses emphasized
both simplicity and practicality.
.
.
 |
| These colorful purses by Plastiflex realized
the possibility of replacing rare leather with synthetic material. In 1942
they were nationally sold through such outlets as the American Chicago-based
mail-order catalog of Sears and Roebuck. |
.
.
Spacious shoulder bags with adjustable straps
experienced a boom, since they permitted hands-free portability.
This was a great advantage to women because of the need to salute or carry
other items while in wartime volunteer jobs and positions
In the United States, where the women’s armed
forces were issued such shoulder bags as part of the uniform, this was
particularly true because civilian women soon recognized the advantages
of these type handbags.
.
.
.
.
Improvisation was the norm during wartime.
Commercially manufactured handbags quickly became exorbitantly priced in
Europe because of mandated rationings, so women resorted to hand-made production
at home.
Bags with draw-strings could be produced just
as easily as cover bags (the latter were now disfavored because of their
smaller carrying capacity and cumbersomeness - with the exception of extra-large
underarm bags ).
.
.
 |
............... |
 |
| Typical handmade pouch bag made of brown velvet.
A cleverly in-sewn rubber band was used as a drawstring to close the bag. |
|
Framework bags could be
handmade whenever pieces of plastic were available and imaginatively used
in construction. |
.
.
Sewing handicraft booklets offered comprehensive
guidance and suggestions. In addition to regular materials, felt
became very popular stuff which can be worked simply. As long as there
were zippers or snap-fasteners, these were substituted for more sophisticated
clasps and closure catches.
.
.
 |
| This rather long (about 20 inches) and spacious
underarm purse, made of green felt with a zipper closure, was typical of
the 40s. |
.
 |
| A large underarm purse made of alternating striped
material with matching hat. Such coordinated ensembles were favored by
fashion-conscious women even in wartime, and could be handmade if necessary
to stay in vogue. |
.
.
| Producing a crochet hat and matching
handbag was an inexpensive alternative (below) |
 |
.
.
Large general-purpose bags, in which one could
carry all sorts of things, were essential female accessories in time of
war, and widely used in many countries.
.
.
 |
Large, fan-style underarm purses,
like this crochet version (above), were favorites in America for provocative
effect. The fan design was considered risqué because it subliminally
reflected the vaudeville “fan-girl” stripper act or sophisticated nightclub
show. A young attractive lady carrying such a purse was considered unusually
provocative and daring. Furthermore, they had an added measure of social
defiance because they somewhat resembled the oriental fans of Japan.
Crochet handbags with store-bought plastic frames
(regular and bell-shape models below) were also common. They could be made
at home and thus represented a cheap alternative to costlier leather versions.
These were often used by milltown girls, miner daughters and other poorer
categories of womenfolk in America. |
 |
.
.
Many fashion accessories, including handbags and
shoes, were produced in very colorful striking colors to counteract the
drabness of wartime everyday life, as well as offer an animating contrast
to the remainder of a plain outfit.
.
.
 |
Country patchwork handbag and matching shoes
reflected the popular Al Capp comic character of gorgeous Daisy Mae, and
was often worn with pinup shorts or skirt and open blouse in the hillbilly
style of rural America. This extremely colorful and bold accessory
combination was a wartime favorite of home girls to entice their soldierboys. |
| Handbag and matching shoes made of
garish green suede. This shade of green was considered a sinful “snake
green” in some parts of the country and disallowed in church. |
 |
 |
Straw handbag and matching heels represented
a ready substitute for leather in the war years. These types of accessories
were wildly popular at the sexually-charged blanket parties prevailing
during the war years (as shown in the 1944 movie Janie). |
.
As the material shortages reached a critical
point during the 40s, larger hip pockets on dresses come in fashion for
daytime wear. These could sometimes replace handbags altogether and thus
represented a cheap and comfortable alternative.
.
Small, simple handbags prevailed for evening wear
and were often made from material remnants. However, if possible, better
velvet or exotic and wild animal leather was used. Ornamentation was enriched
with brooches and embroidery needlework.
.
.
|
Small black crepe evening handbag featuring bead
embroidery and brass clasps. Such miniature handbags were popular with
black underwear and stockings in private parties, where bare essentials
could be carried. Wartime America had many such gatherings attended by
multiple soldiers and some dates, which resulted in high pregnancy rates
(alluded to in several movies, including the 1944 The Miracle of Morgan's
Creek). |
.
..
The fear of wartime gas attack led the civilian
population to possess a quantity of gas masks, which were issued on the
European continent and stored in America and Japan for distribution as
required. In England there were special carrying cases for the gas
masks, which one carried on the lower arm using its short handle.
.
.
 |
The British gas mask carrying case (left) is
made of imitation leather, although some genuine leather versions were
produced earlier before all-out rationing started. |
| The zipper pouch on the gas mask carrying case
backside allowed one to store identity papers and other documents for emergency
purposes. |
 |
.
(Many thanks to Shelby L. Stanton
for English translation and additions)
|
