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| Advertisement for handbags and purses from the
30s Karstadt catalog |
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Contrary to the strictly sporty youthful style
of the 20's, during the course of the next decade handbags gradually became
more romantic and fanciful in design. However, the Art Deco influence kind
with its geometrical forms and shapes remained prevalent for quite some
time.
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| Strapless handbag of brown crepe with enameled
clasp, decorated in typical Art Deco. The center part is fashioned
of accordion pleating. A strap for the hand is provided on the backside. |
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The handbags were also usually small and light.
New synthetic plastics such as bakelite were increasing incorporated, as
these materials were cheaper and more appropriate in view of the decreased
buying power of the population in the depressed global economy.
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| Slender leather purse with
carrying strap by Goldpfeil had a chrome frame and closure. |
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Over the course of time,
handbag interiors became more sophisticated. Most contained several accessory
compartments, a purse, a mirror, and sometimes a holder for a comb. |
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The strapless handbag remained the most popular
model. Even purses with straps were preferably carried under the
arm. Throughout the 30s, these handbags – which were usually made
of leather or other soft material, became increasingly larger and closed
with zipper fasteners. Designs came both with or without hand straps
or loops for the fingers, and evening purses with such loops could be conveniently
carried even while dancing.
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Envelope purse of suede with subdued
design. The purse’s inside case contained compartments for removable mirror
and comb. |
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| American strapless purse made of satin. The circular
groove patterns were created by refined processing of the material. A zipper
closure was used. |
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The newest fashion rage consisted
of metal handbag frames having a design like a folding grill. The framework
was purchased separately and could be flexibly converted to match particular
costumes by the addition of appropriate material. |
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Silver-plated brass case with decorative
cover and chain
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Framework purses now often became softer with
ample pouches completed by a handle and carrying strap. A great variety
of different sizes were offered commencing in the mid-30s. The slogan was,
do what you feel like doing.
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Dark blue polished leather framework handbag
with geometric-style brass clasp.
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Brown suede handbag with skirted bottom.
The handbag contains several inner pockets, including ones for a removable
mirror and change purse.
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Coordinated outfits were possible if one could
hand-produce handbags to match hats and shoes of different wardrobes.
Less talented or busier individuals relied on the offerings of the large
mail-order and department stores, which sometimes sold coordinated ensembles.
Despite the depression years, one could still reasonably afford matching
accessories because imitation materials and plastics allowed favorable
prices.
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Customers could buy both these 1939 matching
ensembles of hat, purse and gloves
from the American Chicago-based mail-order firm
of Sears & Roebuck.
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Handbags became larger with longer carrying straps
toward the end of the 30s. Designer Elsa Shiaparelli was particularly important
in introducing new models of purses into the world of womanly fashion.
Employed women were already aware of the advantages enabled by these kinds
of handbag, and they would experience a great advance during the war years
that followed this decade.
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During the late 30s, summer handbags from
Czechoslovakia, featuring multicolored wooden beads, became a favorite
American fashion novelty.
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While daytime purses commonly were only discretely
decorated, evening purses could display effusive ornamentation. Envelope
purses and framework handbags were richly decorated with beads, sequins,
spangles and embroidery. There were also models consisting entirely of
various plastics.
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Evening purse featuring pearl-bead
embroidery. The frame and the clasp are decorated with mother-of-pearl. |
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The popular fashionable acceptance of 30s
handbags made out of a net of knitted or woven metal (net-metal) would
enjoy a comeback once again during the 50s.
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Net-metal purse of the early 30s with paste-gem
decor closure. At the time, the most prominent manufacturer of these types
of elegant purses was Whiting & Davis.
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The availability of increased leisure time to
the broad masses of the public led to the popularity of large linen and
synthetic-material handbags, which could carry enough necessities whether
on the beach, engaged in sports or involved in other activities like nude
sunbathing (a 30s movement).
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(Left) “Beach handbag in beautiful checked pattern
with rubberized interior" from a 30s Karstadt catalog. |
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(Many thanks to Shelby L. Stanton
for English translation and additions)
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