The end
of World War I led to revolutionary transformations in society within Germany.
Naturally these changes also affected fashion and its accessories.
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The emancipation of women, which had experienced
a tremendous upsurge by the reliance on their responsibility for maintaining
the home-front during the war years, could not stopped again. Ever more
women joined the ranks of employed workers, and therefore also required
handbags for the workplace and independent living. For example, the power
of women to earn their own money fueled the desire to have fashionable
accessories reflecting both newly won independence and work needs. In order
to look smart on the job, it was essential to have proper cosmetics handy,
such as face powder and lipstick. Combs, carried in purses, were also needed
to manage their new bobbed haircuts, since this shorter hairstyle was less
naturally manageable than the old prewar artistically draped and firmly
controlled long-hair coiffures.
The number of women who smoked rose rapidly
throughout the 20s. Smoking and workplace smoke breaks signaled the extensive
feminine emancipation of this decade, in which women gradually conquered
many social domains formerly reserved for men. The need for women
to carry cigarettes, cigarette holders, lighters and matches led to further
storage requirements. |
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With this increase in the need for portable
functionality, the handbag and purse became more and more a fashion necessity
as well as a fashion statement.
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Handbag made of gold-and-black brocade material
with a curved plastic framework of imitation tortoiseshell. The use of
synthetic materials, in the place of genuine but much more expensive natural
materials, experienced a boom during the 20s. |
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Oblong envelope purses, which were carried tucked
in hand or under the arm, came into fashion for daytime use. Their
name stems from the purse flap resembling a letter envelope. Toward the
middle and end of the 20s, the flap disappeared at some models and handbags
with a fastener closure (usually a locking zipper) took its place.
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Since envelope purses
were easily lost or forgotten, small finger loops backside loop were added
to the purse design. This added also to the carrying comfort of the handbag
on the back of the hand or by the wrist.. |
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| Modernistic geometric-design handbag with plastic
frame. |
The backside showing the handbag’s wrist loop |
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In order to satisfy the new needs of the liberated
woman for carrying money and looking her best, many handbags and purses
were provided with mirrors and even a small integrated purse.
Moreover, more traditional framework handbags
made of leather or embroidered material were also available. These were
often angular in shape, and had short straps or chains which could be used
to carry over the folded arm.
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Leather handbag with plastic closure and
short handle.
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Inside of the handbag showing integrated
purse
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Small cylindrical evening cases with tassel was
worn about the neck with a chain, or carried from the finger by a short
silk cord. Cosmetics or illegal drugs were placed inside. Such flapper
devices were commonly seen at the type of parties likely to be raided by
morals or prohibition officers.
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Plastic cylindrical evening case with paste gems,
carried by the finger, was an infamous flapper device. |
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Furthermore, prewar silver-netted handbags were
still cherished. Toward the end of the 20s cheaper net purses came
on the market, which were made of enameled metal modernized with multicolored
geometric patterns.
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Enameled metal netted purse from Whiting
& Davis, a company famous for this kind of purse, was typical of the
modern accessory worn with short flapper dresses. |
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Popular accessories included glass bead handbags
with variably long frames, partially decorated with fringe strands; envelope
purses and Pompadours made of expensive materials and carried by loops
for the hand. The glass bead purses were often decorated in colorful
exotic and oriental motifs, as well as more traditional flower and modern
abstract geometric forms and closures.
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Evening purse with glass beads and sequin
spangles, featuring typical geometric pattern and fringe ornamentation
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Envelope purse with silver and black glass
beads in an Oriental motif. The backside features a wrist loop.
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(Many thanks to Shelby L. Stanton
for English translation and additions)
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