| Illustrations: |
| A
roving through men's fashion
After World
War I the German men's fashion orientated on an "international clothing
style". This asked for a lounge suit with high waist and a flap that bareley
covered the buttocks. It had wide lapels, only two buttons at the front
and pockets with flaps. The trousers that tapered were named "cork-screw
trousers".
In the middle
of the 20's the shape of the lounge suits changed. It was less waisted,
the waistcoat was visible under the jacket and the trousers were equally
wide. Moreover, the supply of patterned material (checks, dots, stripes,
points ...) grew. Popular colours were grey, blue and brown. But very modern
and eccentric fashion ("Dandy's fashion") was only worn by the youth, individualists
and intellectuals. They liked especially the very wide "tango-trousers"
that came from England. There they were called "Oxford bags" because students
wore them over their shorts after sports to avoid the cold.
Cut-away,
dinner jacket and tail-coat were popular dress-suits. The dinner-jacket
was the most modified. Its cut coresponded to the lounge suit.
Sportswear
consisted of very wide knickers and a sports jacket with stitched seams,
patched pockets and a belt.
Before the
world-wide economic crisis of 1929 a noticeable change came into men's
fashion that lasted with only a few variations into the 30's. The upper
part of the body was more accented with wide shoulder pads, while the suit
was less waisted but with a flap clinging to the hips. The lounge jacket
was long and had a very wide lapel. Men mostly wore a single-breasted lounge
suit with three buttons (but only the button in the middle was closed).
The double-breasted suit was only worn at official occasions by day.A white
handkerchief had always to be in the breast pocket. The trousers were wide
and equally cut with cuffs. Fashionable colours were blue, iron-grey and
havanna.
Originating
from evening suits the dinner jacket conformed to the style of lounge suits.
The waist-coat was substituted by a sash little by little. The tail-coat
got fashionably wide trousers.
The sportswear
from the 20's lasted into the 30's with only few variations. But it came
into fashion to wear the sports suits by day in the city. That was why
tailors "protested" against the bad habit to wear knickers and leather
trousers at every turn.
After the
nazis came into power uniforms began to dominate the streets.
During World
War II men's fashion didn't change. To save his few suits the gentlemen
wore uniforms at private occasions, too.
After the
end of the war the clothing for men was very difficult because of the rationing
of fabrics. Therefore the existant wardrobe was worn out. The combination
of patterned jackets and unicoloured trousers became popular because it
gave more variety to dress.
From 1947 on the post -war suits in Germany were dominated by the V-line from America. The long jackets had accented, wide shoulders, pointed lapels and were clinging to the hips. |
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